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Some Knowledge Of Cosmetic Ingredients
Nov 24, 2018

Surfactant determines the quality of the whole facial cleanser.

Below will be the recommended ingredients, in the form of "*", the more *, the better.

The differences between surfactants and surfactants are described as follows:

(1) Sodium dodecyl sulfate (SLS)

This is a highly degreasing surfactant. At present, it is the most commonly used cleaning ingredient that emphasizes oily skin or masculine facial cleanser.

Its disadvantage is that it has potential irritation to the skin. Compared with other surfactants, it is more irritating.

For more than ten years, the fact that SLS is irritating to skin has been pointed out by relevant research reports. Because of the excessive degreasing power, the excessive removal of sebum membranes naturally generated by the skin will reduce the defensive ability of the skin itself in the long run, resulting in dermatitis, skin aging and other phenomena.

Therefore, we really want to choose this kind of products, only recommend the use of healthy skin and oily skin. For allergic and dry skin, do not use this product.

(2) Polyoxyethylene Alkyl Sulfate (SLES)

It is also a surfactant with good degreasing power. The irritation to skin and eye mucosa was slightly less than that of SLS. The so-called eye mucosal stimulation refers to the phenomenon of iridescent stimulation in the eye when it is attached to the eye. Of course, not all surfactants cause eye mucosal irritation.

This kind of detergent is widely used, in addition to facial products, it is also widely used in the formulation of bath milk and shampoo. The reason why it is widely used by manufacturers is that it has good cleaning power and low cost of raw materials.

Facial cleansers with SLS or SLES as the main cleaning ingredients usually need to be formulated with alkaline formulation in order to give full play to the cleansing power. If fruit acid is added to the product together, the effect of fruit acid will be greatly reduced because it can not be adjusted to an acid solution. Therefore, it is not recommended to purchase cleaning products with these two types of detergents claiming to be accompanied by fruit acid.

SLS, SLES and saponification formula, which one has stronger degreasing power or greater irritation? SLS and SLES are not inferior to saponification formula in terms of cleaning power. Stimulation of the skin, you want to go not far. However, the saponification formula is the best for the sensation after washing.

(3) Sodium acyl sulfonate*** (Sodium cococoyl isethionate)

It has excellent cleansing power and low irritation to skin. In addition, it has excellent skin affinity. It feels good when washed and after washed. The skin will not be too dry and tender.

When this ingredient is used as the main formula of facial cleanser, the acid-base value is usually controlled between PH5-7, which is very suitable for normal skin. Therefore, it is suggested that oily skin, or people who like to wash their face very dry, non-oily and slippery, choose this kind of ingredients, long-term use of the skin is more secure.

(4) Disodium laureht sulfosuccinate (Disiodium lauramido MEA-sulfosuccinate)

Surfactants with moderate degreasing power are seldom used as the main cleaning ingredients. Although the degreasing power is not strong, it has excellent foaming power, so it is often used in conjunction with other cleaning ingredients to regulate foam.

In addition to facial cleanser, it is more commonly used in foam shower gel and children's shower gel, or as foaming agent in less foaming detergent. Its irritation to skin and eye mucosa is very small. For dry and allergic skin, it can be regarded as a mild cleaning ingredient.

(5) Mono alkyl phosphate (MAP)

It belongs to mild, moderate degreasing surfactant. This kind of products must be adjusted in alkaline environment in order to give full play to the cleaning effect. Skin affinity is good, so it feels good when washed or after washed.  However, long-term use is not recommended for alkaline allergic skin.

(6) Sodium acylsarcosinate** (Sodium covoyl sarcosinate, Sodium lauryl sarcosinate)

Medium degreasing power, low irritation, good foaming power, mild chemical properties. Less often used as a cleaning ingredient alone, usually with other surfactant formulations. In addition to the slightly weak degreasing power, the composition characteristics are similar to (3) sodium acyl sulfonate.

(7) Alkyl polyglucoside *** (AGPs)

This surfactant is made from natural plants without any toxicity or irritation to skin and environment. Cleaning power is moderate, which is a new popular low-sensitivity cleaning ingredient.

At present, there is a kind of dishwasher using AGPs, which is a little expensive. Housewives may wish to compare it with other dishwasher formulations. They can definitely feel from their hands and affirm that this kind of surfactant is mild and non-irritating. However, AGPs as the main component of facial wash milk is still rare.

(Amphoteric surfactant ** (Laurl betaine, Cocoamidopropyl betaine, Lauramidopropyl betaine)

Generally speaking, these cleaning ingredients have low irritation, good foaming and moderate degreasing power. So it is more suitable for dry skin or infant cleanser formula.

In the current clean market, baby shampoo is most used. It is often used with surfactants with strong degreasing power in facial cleanser.

(9) Amino acid surfactants *** (Acylglutamates, Sodium N-lauryl-l-glutamate, Sodium N-cococoyl_glutamate, N-cocoyl glutamic acid, TEA N-cocoyl glutamate, Potassium N-coyl glutamate)

Amino acid surfactants are made from natural ingredients. The ingredient itself can be adjusted to be weak acidic, so the irritation to the skin is very small, and the skin-affinity is particularly good. It is the mainstream of cleansing ingredients of high-grade facial cleanser at present, and its price is relatively expensive. Long-term use, you can not worry about harm to the skin.