Alpha Arbutin and Beta Arbutin

Arbutin is commercially used as a skin-whitening agent in cosmetic industry. It works by competitive inhibition of the enzyme, tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the synthesis of melanin.

Depending on the spatial structure of the glycosidic linkage between glucose and hydroquinone, arbutin forms two epimers: α-arbutin and β-arbutin.

Product name	CAS Number	Molecular formula	Molecular structure
Beta-Arbutin	497-76-7	C12H16O7
Alpha-Arbutin	84380-01-8	C12H16O7

Arbutin Working Mechanism

Skin whitening

Arbutin exhibits potent melanin-inhibiting properties and confers whitening effects on the skin. Sun damage and injury or inflammation to the skin from acne, eczema or psoriasis are the two main factors that cause melanin production on the skin. Arbutin can reduce the accumulation of pigment by inhibiting the production of melanin, which accumulates on the skin when tyrosine is oxidized. An enzyme called tyrosinase is the catalytic for this reaction. Scientists found arbutin has shown inhibitory actions against tyrosinase. When topically apply skincare products containing Arbutin, the inhabitation of tyrosinase results in the decrease of melanin, thus, a whiter complexion.

Hyperpigmentation in the epidermis is caused by excessive melanin synthesis due to UV irradiation, wound or stress. Tyrosinase is one of the key enzymes involved in melanin synthesis. The enzyme catalyses the first two steps in melanin synthesis: the hydroxylation of tyrosine to DOPA and the oxidation of DOPA to dopaquinone. Arbutin has an direct inhibitory function against tyrosinase, which leads to the prevention of melanin formation and a whitening effect on the skin.

Alpha-Arbutin V.S. Beta-Arbutin

Recent research showed that Alpha-Arbutin has a 10-fold stronger inhibitory effect on the activity of tyrosinase from human malignant melanoma cells than that of Beta-Arbutin. The α-glucosidic bond found in Alpha-Arbutin offers higher stability than the β form found in the related Beta-Arbutin. Moreover, Alpha-Arbutin hardly inhibited cell growth at 1 mmol/L, while Beta-Arbutin inhibit it significantly at the same concentration. It is, therefore, considered that Alpha-Arbutin is an effective and safe ingredient for cosmetics. Alpha arbutin is very expensive. That is the one downside.

Differences between Alpha-Arbutin V.S. Beta-Arbutin

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