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Contemporary anti-aging/skin repair technology
Jun 27, 2018

Anti-aging is the fastest-growing segment of the skincare market. Some experts predict that the global skincare market will reach $19.667 billion by 2024. The global skincare market is mainly divided into face care and body care, of which face care is divided into three parts: anti-aging, sunscreen and brightening.

The demand for more effective anti-aging face cream will make the market segment of facial care develop more and more rapidly in the whole cosmetic market in the future. Currently the best anti-aging products can reduce fine lines/wrinkles by about 50 percent and brighten skin by as much as 4 percent hydroquinone.

Signs of skin aging

Anti-aging formulas are products that are based on basic moisturizing and claim to make consumers look younger by reducing or preventing signs of skin aging. These signs include:

Skin sagging

The appearance of wrinkles

Pigment deposition/yellowing

The skin is dry

Elastic fibers are lost in the sun

Poor skin texture

Cosmetic claim

Remember the FDA for cosmetics are important: the definition of "through the brush, pour, sprinkling, spray, or otherwise break on the human body is introduced to clean, beautification, enhance the personal charm or change the appearance of the item" 2.

A recent warning letter from the FDA indicates that it will in the future declare strict regulation of the industry. Anti-aging products require cosmetics that are associated with moisturizing and skin appearance, not how active substances work.

Effective moisturizers can reduce wrinkles by about 30 percent without any "active substance", and can significantly improve skin firmness and elasticity. This fully demonstrates the importance of developing good basic formulations - helping to maximize the effects of the active substances added.

History of skin anti-aging formula

In the 1980s, Avon launched its first anti-aging product on the market with a stable ascorbic acid (vitamin C). Ascorbic acid (ascorbic acid) is very unstable in water. It needs to be formulated as a water-free medium to obtain the best stability.

Over the next 30 years, the most stable vitamin C derivatives, being developed, such as magnesium/ascorbic acid sodium phosphate, ascorbic acid glucoside, ethyl ascorbic acid and ascorbic acid four decyl group. Ascorbic acid is believed to act as an antioxidant that stimulates the formation of collagen and can brighten skin. At present, ascorbic acid is mainly used in skin lightening products or in combination with other anti-aging active substances to improve efficacy.

See the yellow acid revolution

In 1986, Dr. Albert Kligman was clinically tested to confirm that retin-a, A prescription acne cream containing retinoic acid, can significantly reduce wrinkles and improve the overall appearance of the skin. This is one of the first large and well-designed studies to show that skin topical products can improve photoaging skin.

The study suggests that retinoic acid works by strengthening cell renewal, preventing collagen breakdown and thickening the epidermis. However, in some cases retinoic acid may also cause irritation.

In 1995, the Renova cream containing 0.1% retinoic acid became the first FDA approved drug to treat photoaging skin. In the 1990s, j&j launched the first clinically proven OTC product under the RoC and Neutrogena brands, which contained stable retinol -- a weakened version of retinoic acid.

The structure of retinol is milder than that of retinoic acid. When applied to the skin, retinol is first oxidized to retinal and then further oxidized to retinoic acid. The adjustment of retinol formula makes skin care products stable and effective, and reduces skin irritation. It also requires uv stabilization for household products.

There are currently a number of genomics developed retinol analogues to simulate which genes are affected by retinol. When used alone or in combination with retinol, these simulated products showed good clinical efficacy, good stability and low irritation. Therefore, retinol is still one of the best active ingredients for skin repair.

The introduction of l - hydroxy acid

The age of modern anti - aging products began with the development of products containing prun-hydroxylic acid. AHAs, such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, plays a role in promoting cell stripping and cell renewal. When Avon and neomore (Scott's Liquid Gold) introduced glycolic acid based products in the early 1990s, hydroxyl acid revolutionized the skin care market. The sales growth of these products has been impressive, with total sales of the two products reaching $300 million by 1994. By 1996, more than 45 companies had produced more than 200 different products with the artificial - hydroxy acid.

This has ushered in a modern trend to develop performance-based anti-aging skin care products that provide tangible benefits to consumers that are supported by objective clinical data. The product has created a great reputation for anti-aging skin care products in the current mass market.

The French company Sederma introduced Matrixyl (palmitoyl pentapeptidin-4), a peptide active ingredient -- one of the first anti-aging ingredients to have data from the 30-day clinical trial of a control placebo group. In the past, suppliers rarely conducted such studies as are now common.

Matrixyl won the 2015 innovation award for 25 years because its products have had the biggest impact on the personal-care raw materials market over the past quarter-century. 3

Polypeptide: multifunctional skin care active substance

The difference between peptides and proteins is based on their size. Peptides usually contain less than 50 amino acids, and in most cases less than 10. Peptides act as messengers to signal faster healing of different types of tissue. The technique USES peptides to trick the skin into thinking it's injured and requires extra protein. Peptide messengers usually contain active amino acid sequences that induce or inhibit the formation of specific types of proteins.

Peptides are versatile skin-care active substances that reduce wrinkles, treat acne, improve skin tone/elasticity, brighten skin or ease sunburn. At present, peptides are one of the most popular active ingredients in anti-aging products, because they are easy to make, powerful, and have very high cost efficiency when used (usually <20ppm). The anti-aging products of peptides and other active ingredients, which are carefully prepared, have similar effects and are not irritating to skin compared with retinol.

Future trend

High demand and high growth from an aging population

Development of natural active substances

Due to the need to pass the global component certification, the development of new active substances is becoming less and less, which leads to the development of more collaborative active substances combination

New skin repair active substances are developed using more genomics and computer modeling

Focus more on active substances that protect skin pass, the current active substances in the reaction of the curative effect of the subjects up 400% compared with the average maximum and most of the difference is due to no response of project due to low bioavailability

Combine with external application through oral administration and other ways to improve the curative effect